A little chop on Tuesday to tide us over until a more sizeable swell hits over the weekend.
A cold front moves through the northeast setting up a pulse of northeast winds pushing down the coast to hatteras over the next few days. The front will stall out around the Carolinas and the winds die out....but not after a nice swell is made. A low may form well out in the Atlantic also, helping to keep some swell being made. Look for that swell to hit over the weekend. It should push all the way through the Palm Beaches too. The good news is, since that front will not make it down here, our winds will cooperate somewhat.
There will be an onshore wind but a loose pressure gradient over the area will give us maybe a 5 or 10kt wind out of the east and southeast. Possibly light enough for a landbreeze to form in the early morning (offshores!) Sunday. One bad thing is High tide is going to be in the morning, low tide around noon to afternoon. Maybe with all the sand shifting around lately, it'll work out in our favor.
Then just as that swell fades on Monday, a stronger cold front finally makes it all the way through the state, bringing northeast windchop/swell back on Tuesday and beyond.
So...... here's the low-down:
THURSDAY-FRIDAY: Basically flat. Small swell upcoast...loggable maybe.
SATURDAY: Swell will build in. Should be fun all day. East wind around 10. The wind will be a bit stronger Saturday so a little choppier. Still should be fun though. Chest-head high long period swell.
SUNDAY: NE swell holding strong. Chest-head high still. Light wind in the morning and a light seabreeze forming in the afternoon. Could be REALLY good. Expect crowds everywhere. It'll loose some size late in the day.
MONDAY: Light offshore winds in the morning with some small leftovers dying out through the day. Around knee- maybe waist high at the right spot.
TUESDAY and BEYOND: Temperature drop again, winds pick up out of the north then northeast. Swel/chop combo builds in during the day. Chest-head high. Then looks like another week of solid windchoppy swell! Stay tuned for any tweaks the forecast to come.
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James Wieland
Meteorologist/
Surf Forecaster
WPTV HD / WPTV.com
News Channel 5
West Palm Beach/
Treasure Coast
http://wptv.com/surfing -----------------------------------
